Musing - CDN to Villaviciosa

Today was peaceful. We were up in the foothills most of the morning. The walk was good. All this walking gives you plenty of time to think. These are the idle musings of a pilgrim.

What it would be like to hike this with the energy you had in your twenties?

I thought a lot about making art. I caught several drawing ideas, ones I should write down so I remember.

Two thoughts kept coming: I should make art. This art will sell. I don’t know why it would, but something tells me it will. I just need to do it.

The people that live the life they want, do the things they want to do. They are bold about it. They don’t hesitate, they just do what moves them. And even if they fail, they are at least doing what they are passionate about, and that’s the rub.

And I have a chance, a choice to do it. So, why not?

For lunch, we had fabada. A delicious Asturian specialty of white beans and sausage.

After a week of walking, we are taking a much needed rest day. And back home it’s Thanksgiving. So time to relax, and kick our feet up for a day.

This Coast - CDN to Colunga

We put a good two hours of hiking in the dark to get here at dawn. It was worth it. This IS the best breakfast spot of the trip, and we aren’t going to rush.

This coastline is rugged, jagged, and sharp. You don’t want to trip here. The waves are big today, and the sound is deep. The roar of the ocean hitting these rocks is ancient. It goes deep into our psyche. I can’t stop watching the waves.

The sun rises a little. We walk on. We start finding active bufones! It’s as though the ground is breathing through these nostril like openings connected to the sea.

It’s all hydraulics of water pressure pushing air through a narrowing tube. They are all over the place! And they “breathe” in time to the ocean swells.

This is not an easy coastline to hike, and it works us. It also slowed us down. But that doesn’t matter, this is why we are here. To embrace it all, and this coast is worth embracing.

We stop off for an early lunch in some town along the way. It’s a bar for old men, run by an old man, with food made from scratch by an old woman. We love these places. They are reliably open in the morning. And they serve good food.

Then what you know what we did? We got on the bus! We weren’t going to make it to our next town before dark at our current pace. We fast forward two towns by bus, and got out to walk the rest of the way home.

Die hard Camino purists will likely criticize our move, but so what? We are making our camino work for us, and this was the right move. We may not hike every single step of the trail, but we will get 75% of them. And 75% of 510 miles is still a hell of a lot of steps.

Besides, check out this scenery. This is how we spent our afternoon, walking through paradise! We are so lucky to be alive and healthy enough to be able to walk these paths.

I love these fence lines…

So over it for the day…

We made it to town! We had a couple drinks in the late afternoon sunshine, content to do absolutely nothing over a glass of cool albariño….

“Ahh, Is this not happiness” ~ Jin Shengtan, 17th Century Chinese sage

From Bad to Good - CDN To Piñeres

The day began cold, rainy, and dark. We chose a sketchy muddy trail to nowhere, dead ending in a cow pasture at the edge of a cliff over the sea. We had to back track right back to where we started. It was not an auspicious start to our day, but these things happen.

I thought it was funny. My accomplice did not. It was her idea, not mine, but I didn’t rub it in. Shit happens. Get on with it.

Poo was great! We recalibrated with coffee and tortilla.

The rain ended. The day grew bright. The trail interesting. Our lives improved dramatically. And that’s just it… you never know. It ended up being one of our best days on the trail, and here’s proof.

Mid morning scenes.

These donuts… they are the most plastic sugar fake things you’ll ever find. But on the trail, they are pure gold.

This is the most out of the way free library I’ve ever seen.

We found a busy tavern full of farmers having their pre siesta caña. These guys serve beef and pork they raised on their farm. And the person doing the cooking knows their stuff.

This was the best steak I’ve ever had in a restaurant. To be fair, I had walked eleven miles to get here. That usually makes everything taste good.

This place is what every traveller dreams of finding.. It was local, delicious, and not a hipster in sight.

At the alburgue, the resident cat came by for a warm lap and a nap. You know the rules, if a cat is on your lap, you can’t get up. Sometimes it works out in your favor, sometimes not.

This was one of the few friendly animals we’ve met in Spain. The dogs are aloof. The horses don’t care.

Only the miniature ponies and donkeys occasionally come by to say hello.

Is there anything more peaceful than a sleeping cat? I think not.

This cat has inspired me.

Goodnight!

Asturias - CDN to Llanes

Some days there just isn’t much to say. We walked. I like Asturias paths so far. It’s a bit rougher. More unkempt. Bigger mountains. More sheep.

We arrived in Llanes at an awkward time. Three in the afternoon means the restaurants are closing soon for four hours. Starving and thirsty, I took matters into my own hands, and went to the grocery store.

I bought pasta, veggies and wine. I came home and cooked it all up. Spanish ingredients yield excellent results.

Some days you just don’t want anything but your own food.

Here are a few scenes of the day.

Dawn Light - CDN To Unquera

We love hiking in the early morning. We leave at 7 am, and get going in the dark. The towns are asleep. Only the birds are awake and have started their morning prayers. It’s cool. It’s dark. And it’s ours.

This morning dawn broke with a gorgeous display of color. The best of the trip so far. We had views of the ocean to the north, and mountains to the south. Everywhere you looked was green and gorgeous.

Morning walks like this are good for the soul.

We took to the sand before San Vicente, and walked the beach for a mile. It was a nice change of pace. We watched mediocre surfers ignore good waves, and dogs taking their owners for a walk.

We sipped our coffee at a bar in San Vicente.

After coffee, the road led away from the ocean and up into the high green foot hills. We really like walking from farm to village out here. The roads are quiet, and the farms are interesting. Most villages have a small church, or park that is perfect for lunch.

Sadly, there were no donkeys today.

After lunch is our hardest time. The body is tired, especially after all this road walking. It’s hard on the body.

I take fewer photos in the afternoon. . The light isn’t as good, and I can’t be bothered unless it’s really good.

Like these flowers!

Or this Stick bug!

Or this dog sleeping in a hay stack!

We’ve walked over a hundred miles so far. We have a long way to go, but one step at a time. We enter the realm of Asturias tomorrow.

Cider country!

Rain And Roads - CDN to Camillas

After a week on the trail, the rain finally caught us. We walked through two good squalls today, but our ponchos kept us dry. During the second rain, I opted to use only my umbrella, and I was happy with the results.

I haven’t used an umbrella much in my life, and I’ve been curious to see how it would perform with a full pack and walking for a few hours. I kept dry. I liked the freedom of not having a hood over my head. All in all, it was a good experiment, and I’m a fan.

I’m glad I have both options. In a heavy rain, the poncho is the best. But a medium to light rain, I like the umbrella.

A young donkey with soft alpacca fur.

After the first chilly squall, we we’re cold and ready for some coffee. Our timing was perfect, and we tucked into a cup and a bun in Orena.

The route today was gorgeous. We walked from village to village, each unique in its own way. So green! The mix of sun and rain showers, led to some spectacular views from the high points.

Today’s donkeys.

The Sign of the Snail.

These coastal snails love to congregate on high flat metal surfaces.

The second squall hit.

We got near the ocean today. You could here the waves crashing for much of the day. At one point, we actually went down to the beach. I couldn’t help myself, I had to go touch the water.

And then the sun came out.

The route grew long in the afternoon. We were very tired by the time we got to Comillas. We stopped off for beers and food, and we finally got some tarte de Abuella - Grandma cake… It’s not fancy, just good.

Cantabria - CDN Mogro to Santillana

We regained the camino this morning at 7 am in the realm of Cantabria. I like the name. I like saying it out loud.

We headed west following back roads roads under a high overcast sky. This was a perfect day for walking. We didnt soften over our hiatus from the trail, and in fact have gotten faster.

Having no giant hills and ridges to climb and descend really gives you a lot more energy to cover some ground.

This was mostly urban walking on hard asphalt, and our knees took a beating. This was the challenge of the day - managing movement over the extra hard surface.

Early morning sea view.

A congregation of snails

We got to walk by a giant factory! “Those guys are really doing stuff!”

Mid morning coffee break. Once a day we need a cup of coffee. I prefer it before we leave, but mid morning makes for a nice break too.

A good tree against a good sky.

What we wear on our feet.

My accomplice looking to the future.

Lunch! We often get breakfast and lunch from the market the night before. It let’s you have a good picnic wherever the mood strikes you. “Al Fresco!”

Fools!

We had a good day back on trail. It felt good to be back. The break was nice, but you start missing walking after you’ve embraced the lifestyle. It feels so good to just be outside all day listening to birds and petting donkeys. We make up stupid jokes nobody would like and laugh!

We look forward to food, our pension room for the night, getting clean and naps.

Until tomorrow…

To Find a Dentist - CDN Pause

I’m sitting here on our rented couch three hours after having a root canal on one of my teeth. Half my face is numb, but I am happy. Tomorrow we get back on the trail.

My tooth has been getting worse since Paris, and as we had been planning a rest day in Bilbao, I mentioned to my accomplice that I had tooth pain and would like to see a dentist.

Its not easy to accomodate these things as a perpetual traveller, especially when on route with no fixed address.

It’s daunting to find a dentist on short notice in a foreign place. But the only thing to do is try. My accomplice is worth her weight in gold. She reached out and got me an appointment in Bilbao for 1030 Monday morning.

We went and learned I needed a root canal on one of my teeth. However, they could not do the procedure. So we had to look for more options.

The next city up the pike was Santander, and so we searched again, this time finding a clinic that had availability and the ability to do the root canal. They said they could do it Wednesday morning.

So that is what happened. We readjusted things and headed to Santander. We are skipping 64 miles of trail, but I’ll make up for it next time. And 64 miles out of a 510 mile trail isn’t the biggest sin. Sometimes your teeth hurt, and you must attend to them.

We did a bit of city walking in Bilbao and Santander. Here’s a few photos of our findings.

The best tortilla we’ve found yet. This one in Santander. We found a small cafe, with mom and pop running the show making homemade unpretentious good food.

They also made a rockfish carrot leak onion pate we had on toast. We didn’t know what we were ordering, but it was a specialty of the house. At first, we weren’t sure about it, but we couldn’t seem to stop eating it. And by the end we decided it was very good.

I have a new favorite white wine. Alberino. I love Spanish wine. I think they are probably the best all around wine makers in the world. Of course, they are pairing their wine with excellent food, so that helps. And who doesn’t think more fondly of the food and drink you’ve had on a journey or a holiday? That’s human nature!

We took advantage of our down tome to make our own table tapas.

We found another Chamber of Ham!

We walked through the Bilbao Cathdral to the voice of a beautiful singer who had started singing outside the door. Her voice was angelic. She made this cathedral soar.

I’m happy this chapter is over. I’m happy I don’t have any more tooth pain. I’m ready to get back on the trail. Our bodies are rested. It’s time to go!

Transformation - CDN Day 5

“Coffee and canas make a Camino day better.”

This morning we got moving in the chilly dark of 06:30. Gernika was asleep. And honestly, I wasn’t really feeling it. This felt like a job in a way - that somehow we left the fun behind on day two.

We struggled up the first slippery rocky pitch in the morning gloam. We reached the ridge and caught our breath.

The trail eased a bit, and we fell into conversation. My accomplice mentioned that as she read reviews of the sections of the trail, that mostly they were complaints about this and that. “Too muddy. Too long. Not enough this. Too much that.”

But one guy wrote, “I like the longer sections, as it gives me more time to spend with God and contemplate.” (Roughly paraphrased)

He’s absolutely right. I forgot the point of this journey. I got lost in the bricka bracka of trail life. I let the mileage, the hostels, the body pain, and physical endurance occupy the majority of my thoughts. I forgot that this trail is meant to open yourself up to God. Whatever that means to you. It’s a personal journey.

It was this reminder that set me free. It reset my mind, my spirit, and my joy in this endeavor.

The rest of the day was spent in mindful appreciation of the day. Nothing bothered me anymore. It was all great.

And this is what I saw.

100 Meters of Slick Muck

Nice Trailside Shaggy Mane

This farmer wins for most gourds or marrows.

We walked several miles through eucalyptus and pine forests. Nice aroma!

Miniature ponies and donkeys are my favorite farm animals. They often come by to see if, perhaps, we might have a carrot for them.

I haven’t fed them, as I think other pilgrims have overfed them, and their owners wouldn’t appreciate it. Besides, the grass they eat is top of the line.

Basque cheese cake is worth the effort.

We made it to Bilbao! We are taking a rest day tomorrow to recouperate and try and find a dentist. More to come on Tuesday.

Ciao!

A Quiet Day - Camino del Norte day 4

We had ourselves a quiet walk through the country side. Not really much to say about it other than it was a good day. We are now exhausted, fed, clean and ready for bed at ten o’clock at night.

Here’s the days catch of photos.

Morning warm up on the creek.

River fall..

Motif on side of a church… Giant flying chicken hauling off skulls?

Church.

Mossy bridge.

Very lush valley path.

Big horses.

Mid morning snack.

Salad. The cucumbers here are delicious.

How we look after hiking 8 hours.

Canas are Life!

The New Normal - Camino del Norte day 3

The novelty of the hike started to wear off today. The new reality started to set in. We just barely started. We are now 40 miles in to a 510 mile hike.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m still excited, but my mind and body has started to absorb what I’ve begun: That this is going to be a lot of hard work.

Backpacking is nothing but hard work. It seems glamorous from the outside, but when you step into pack and walk fifteen miles up, down and around the landscape, it gets real pretty fast.

Right now? Everything hurts. Not to worry. It’ll get better. We’ve conquered everything thrown at us so far. We’ll be fine.

Morning Light

The light this morning was quite beautiful. I was lucky enough to meet a miniature pony with great hair.

The welcome committee in the valley of Olatz consisted of two great donkeys and one old man dog.

Afternoon Scenes

Follow The Yellow Arrow

The camino is well marked by these yellow arrows and standing way posts. I spend a lot of my day looking for them, and they keep us going.

I don’t map out the route. I do a little research the night before so I know what I’m in for the next day. Beyond that, I just follow the arrow and let the landscape show me what it will.

The Monastery

When we got to Merkina, we found the Monastery of Erita de San Miguel de Arretxinaga founded in the 11th century around three megalithic stones.

This is definitely the most interesting and moving place of contemplation I’ve ever seen. It’s unique. It’s huge. It’s so cool. There’s a different energy in this place.

I walk eight to nine hours a day now. That’s what I do. And that’s a pretty good life. Especially when you are here in Basque country.

The Orange Bastard - Camino del Norte, Day 2

I’ve given my backpack a name - “The Orange Bastard.” It’s a name given with love and hate entwined in it. I DO love my backpack.. It’s really a perfect fit, and functions well. I just loathe its weight as it digs into my shoulders and hips relentlessly after eight hours on the steep trail.

Such is the nature of day two. The trail is steep, and my soft body isn’t trail hardened yet. It will be. Just give me three more days, and I probably won’t notice it anymore. But today? Im NOTICING It. I’m REALLY noticing it.

The day started out grand. Coffee and a sea side walk to Getaria. It’s nice having the ocean waves to listen to as dawn approaches and my body slowly warms up with my efforts. I’m in tune with the day break.

This Cro-nut is stuffed with applesauce. It’s what’s for breakfast.

The trail headed high and green after that, and the scenic beauty of the landscape before and after Zumaia can’t be beat. The Basque country really is easy on the eyes and soul.

It’s dead easy to sell backpacking with a neon green landscape like this. Insert backpacker with a sweeping view, and push the shutter on your camera. Voila!

Which path? We took the right one.

We met several horses, sheep and goats. We also met one sleepy cat and the happiest dirtiest farm puppy you’ve ever seen.

The pasture here is thick with lush green grass. These are happy animals content to spend their days cropping and chomping. It looked so good, I thought to myself, “Why not?” And contemplated taking a few handfuls for the road.

The last three hours of trail were brutal on my body. When I get tired, I pull the camera out less often. These images were just too beautiful not to catch.

Its difficult to show the steepness and length of the decent into Deba. My pictures don’t do it justice. But by the end my knees were smoking and smell like burned rubber.

If you find yourself at the bottom of these slab steps and finally on a road, do yourself a favor and hang a left. There’s an elevator that will take you down to city street level, and an ice cold cerveca to cool your knees.

Another fine day in Basque country!

Sheep Don't Lie - Camino Del Norte Day 1

I have a working theory that sheep only live in beautiful places. My supporting theory to that one is that the best countries to walk through have sheep.

So far, I havent been proven wrong. Sheep don’t lie.

We started our Camino del Norte today in San Sebastian at the Cathedral. We left in the cool dark of 0630, and landed in Zarautz at 1415.

It was a long trek. We aren’t in shape, but we are experienced enough to know that strong legs, lungs and heart aren’t made in a day. So we did what we could and thoroughly enjoyed the hike.

And what a beautiful day!

I asked the donkeys, “Is one of you Donkey ‘Ho-tey’? And this one came to say hello.

We stopped for lunch in Orio. A sandwich and coffee. The glory of sitting down..

After lunch we began climbing once again. Our legs protesting our decisions in life, but screw them! It’s about time we did something difficult. Character is built on hardship, not taking the easy path. And so we suffer, but knowing full well our investment will pay off.

It is risky to hike so late in the season. It could easily rain for a week straight without let up. However, the rewards are evident today… A quiet trail through a beautiful everchanging landscape. It really made us feel so very lucky to be alive and grateful we are able to hike in this beautiful place.

And at the end of the day, when your legs are screaming and your stomach is hollering yet your spirit is soaring, you limp through town feeling like a king! You really did something today! The only thing left to do is to find an open tavern and order cold beers and three different plates tapas…

Not bad for day one. Thirty five more to go. Salut!

Footloose In Paris

Paris, like most European cities, is very walkable. Its safe to say I’ve put over twenty miles in three days seeing what I could. I had no hope of seeing it all, and didn’t try.

What I did see, was wonderful.

I went to two museums, the Lourve and the Pompidou. The Lourve is massive. I think most of the security guards in the galleries were lost tourists that couldn’t find their way out and they put them to work. “I was lost, but now I work here.”

It might take a life time to see all of it.

I spent a lot of time admiring the statues of Greek and Roman eras.

The Pompidou is hosting a surrealist exposition I found well worth my time. I saw several paintings by my heroes including: Remedious Varo, Dorthea Tanning, Renee Magritte, and Dali to name a few.

Look at the detail on this Dali… his penchant to give detail to the farthest horizon really makes his paintings singular and amazing. He must have used a brush with a single hair on it to make these lines. It’s so good..

Paris is a beautiful city. Wherever you look there is a compelling scene. They built this city well, and putting time into making it more green and more accessible. Thank you.

I was thinking as I walked by Notre Dame that the repairs are happening very fast since the fire. It makes me wonder if the operators of the Basilica de la Sangrada Familia down in Bacelona might want to rethink their contractor. That cathedral has been in construction since 1882 and STILL not complete. Just sayin..

The food is excellent. The thing about France is they have high standards for their ingredients. I had a baked egg, foie gras, sour creme on toast that was probably the most French thing I have eaten. It was very delicious.

I could rave endlessly about the croissants, and cheese, and pastries, and baguettes but everyone already knows the French are the best at these things. I really have nothing new to say, other than if you have a cheese problem like I do, you may want to visit.

I was introduced to Rocamadour and life won’t be the same again.

It’s time to take a train south to Spain. The next adventure awaits, and it will be very challenging and interesting. More to come.

Au Voir!

Opening Lines In Paris

I’m beyond tired. But, I am in Paris, so I must be doing something right. I’m not sure I have the mental capacity to write coherent sentences, much less stay on topic, but I will try. It was a long flight.

The good news is that a million other people have already written about Paris a million times, so that will save us all a lot of time.

I will offer ten views, and commentary.

It’s nice being back in Europe. It’s the little things that make it special. Like little cups of espresso to help you along.

I love the central staircase in our apartment.

A delicious double award winning wine cost 7 Euro. Thank you!

My girlfriend and I portayed on the Arc de Triumph. They got out likeness and our spirit just right!

The lamp post helps this image. “Do you know who you can thank for lamp posts? Louis the 14th..” ~Linda

Ironically, it wasn’t lit up.

I’ve had dumplings all over the world, bur nobody makes them better than these guys.

My advice? Walk Paris at night. Also, get a cinnamon and sugar crepe for dessert!

It was a fine first day.

Snow Birds

It took two solid days of effort to winterize the homestead, and get the van ready to travel south.

We left the homestead five days ago. We left a day early to avoid an incoming snow storm, and that plan worked out great! No snow, just rain.

Fast forward through four excellent days of southwesterly travel through the plains, and here we are: Smack dab in the middle of a snow storm. Ha!

This morning I had an option: Head south and keep going south keeping it rainy. Or head west, and go to the hot spring, and probably get “an inch or two of snow.” An inch or two?? Pffft!

I opted for the hot spring, and instead got a snow storm.

I KNEW better, but the allure of hot springs will always sway me. Crossing the high plain from Clayton to Springer was fine. I had high hopes I’d be in a hot spring within a couple hours.

We turned south just as the first flakes began to hit us.

We drove for an hour through quickly deteriorating conditions. Then it got real bad. Two ruts and sloppy snow. Blowing snow, shaking the van. Other drivers speeding along, skidding out. Once we passed a jack knifed semi, we decided to get off the highway and hole up for the day.

Hello Las Vegas! New Mexico, that is… Not nearly so glamourous as Nevada, but just as welcoming.

We found a motel where we could check in at 10:30 am and a Mexican restaurant across the street.

So it’s a chill day. We’ve earned it. We have dramatically imprived our predicament! And we still have enough time tomorrow to drop the van off and catch our flight to Paris.

Pacific Northwest Baker's Dozen

These are the last photos from Alaska and British Columbia for the year.

1. Flying Over Southeast Alaska. I had my nose to the window on this flight. Just gorgeous.

2. Misty Fjord Nat’l Monument. It lived up to its billing.

3. Sunset.

4. Cloud Hidden Mountain Waterfall

5. Morning color, Near Alert Bay, BC

6. The Forest on top the hill. Alert Bay, BC

7. Russula Mushroom in the forest.

8. Plant Rythyms.

9. Lilac Russula

10. Dock Mural. Alert Bay. BC

11. Misted Layers

12. Unstable Air.

13. Magic Water. Seattle.

Summer Slumber, Autumn Awakens

This magical time of year. The days a mashup of warm late summer and cool autumn moments. Some evenings I turn on the heat to take the edge off. Other afternoons, I wade into lady Superior to cool off. Yesterday, I did both on the same day.

The light angles low, lengthening shadows, and warming color of the tinting leaves and grasses.

Sigh….

A million authors have all tried to wax eloquently about autumn. Its hard to do it justice. Autumn is too atmosheric for words, it demands presence. Its textural. One needs to immerse in the season, at least once, and fully present to get it.

Writing about fall seems ludicrous. Only our equatorial friends and aliens may not have any context of it. And then, why bother?

Im simply trying to stir up your own memories, visions, and taste of fall. If I can get you to remember the smelly tang of birch woodsmoke on cool evening air with the sound of the river next to us, maybe I can get you to agree with me that autumn is great.

I think that’s all Im really trying to say every year: I like autumn. Autumn is great. It helps me be present and use my senses to enjoy it as fully as I can.

May I offer some views this years autumnal beginning?

Scenes From An Old Barn

This old barn is full of crap. It's also full of treasure. Built long ago of rough sawn lumber by Finns who had more gumption than know how. They built something out of nothing - using whatever they had.

Spiders seem to like it. You can find them jockeying for position trying to build in the "hot spot" to catch the most flies. Ancient cobwebs accent everything. 

It's musty. Its old must. This must has been there for eighty years, maybe a hundred, probably longer. It's well seasoned must. Its the kind of must that might take a few weeks off your life if you made the mistake of dropping a dictionary flat on the floor in the attic.

It's not a place for weak constitutions. It is a place for those who appreciate old things, and low head room.

It has it's charms. Everywhere you look is a vignette of a bygone era. "What the heck was that used for?" It has a museum feel to it, yet we still use the barn for projects.

We still build things out of nothing, using whatever we have.

Hey Jeff! Your barn door is open!

These wrenches inspired this essay. They have character. I think that’s the key word. This whole place has character.

I like this barn. I like its age and curios. I like that its dirty and filled with a healthy mix of out dated and new. It’s ecclectic. It’s filthy. It’s interesting. It’s useful. Just like an old barn should be.

So Many Mushrooms

Following yesterdays scorching temperatures, we had a night of heavy rain and thunderstorms.

I figured today would be a good day to hike the back ninety and see if there were any mushrooms.

I figured correctly, and the following fungi is all from the hike.

Look at this tiny snail.

Hares Foot ink cap. These guys are sharing the mulch bed with my wine caps.

I finally found Chicken of the Woods on my property! This was a bit too old to harvest, but I know where to find it for next year.

Slug party!

Well protected!

It was an excellent hike. I’m headed out again tomorrow, as there is just too much to see and photograph out there.