Of late we’ve been hiking across the landscape of Tuscany. Sounds romantic, no? Well, it is… until it isn’t. Don’t get me wrong, we still have the romance in our lives. In fact, though we aren’t married, we've opted to call this our first honeymoon. Why have just one? Why only have one if you are married? That’s foolish! Have as many goddamn honeymoons that you can! Life is short! Live!
I digress.. I do that here.
My true point of that rant is thus: When things get hard, that’s the time to take some photos. To which I offer the following:
We started hiking the Via Francigena on a beautiful early morning from the town of Altopascio. This marked a new style of trekking for me - hiking from town to town with all the niceties of well marked paths, mid day cafes with espresso and water, comfortable hotels, and homemade Italian food to boot. Whomever invented pistachio goo filled croissants deserves a Nobel Peace prize for deliciousness.
In short, we're hiking in complete comfort. It’s not so bad. Keep an open mind. Give it a chance some time.
Tuscany provides a beautiful landscape to hike through. There are rolling hills, vineyards full of well directed rows of vines. Olive groves abound. Meandering gravel roads wind throughout it all. There are cool shady forest sections, and many farms, villas, churches, hamlets, walled towns, and beautiful sights to see.
But, in spite of all this grandeur, the thing we didn't quite think about when we decided to do this trek, was the fact that Tuscany gets real damn hot about 11 am, and the sun will burn holes through any tender, pale northern flesh that my partner and I have an abundance of.
And so, we began to suffer.
Suffering is a part of hiking. They often go hand in hand, and sometimes clench each other like long separated lovers.
It was just after lunch on the first day. We faced a 2 hr section of trail along a canal with no shade. Temperatures were reaching ninety three degrees (f) and very little breeze. We trudged along as best we could, with our overweight packs digging in to our sore shoulders. Why were they overweight? Because we were packed for a full trip through Italy, not just trekking a section of Tuscany. To add to our hardship, our hips and legs began tightening up with each step from the long walk. The relentless sun was boring a hole in our heads and our spirits.
We eventually staggered in to Fucecchio. We walked on until we found a bit of shade formed by the shadows of the buildings. We stopped for a minute to let traffic pass, and I said, “Eat Pray Love, my Ass, Fuck that section.” (No offense to Elizabeth Gilbert, whose writing style I greatly admire). I pulled out my camera and snapped a self portrait, knowing full well, we looked and felt like hell passed over.
We found a grocery store, and cooled off in the refrigeration section. We bought cold drinks, and supplies, and sat down in the shade of the building to reset.
What do you do when you are on the verge of heat exhaustion, have heat rash, sore muscles and facing another three hours of hiking uphill in late afternoon heat to the town with your hotel? Ill tell you what you do, you get on the bus is what you do.
Being middle aged adventurers is great! Fuck that misery! Get on the bus, and get on with it. The only problem was, we weren't sure the busses were running on a Sunday with a festival going on. But, we decided to trust it. We walked to the bus stop and checked the schedule. It seemed there was a chance.
We had some time to kill, so we had a beer at the bar next door. We guzzled, hoped and waited, because the thought of having to hike another 3 hours was demoralizing.
The lord works in mysterious ways sometimes, and our hopes were answered by San Autista - Saint Bus Driver. You never know who will be your saint on any given day. And this guy, he deserves a medal for bringing us up that awful hill, and out of that glaring sun. It was the best 6 euro I've ever spent. We made it!
The Point of all This is This:
Remembering the hard times is just as interesting and important as reminiscing about the good times. You don't grow when life is easy. Growth only happens when you are suffering. Remember that! So don't fret if life kicks you around some. Take out your camera and take a few portraits. It'll help give you perspective when life shifts the other way and all is well and right with the world.
. . .
We now hike from 6 am to noon and avoid the worst of the heat. If the section of the trail runs past noon, we stop at the nearest town and get on the bus. Brilliant!
Ciao!